Glasgow and Edinburgh (Singnite 2002)

When we first received the first e-mail about Singnite 2002 to be held in Edinburgh, we jumped at the chance to visit Scotland, so near and yet so far, the "barriers of entry" being the cost and the body of water separating UK from the continent. We chose to fly because the British rail network doesn't have a very good reputation (watch Ken Loach's latest film, The Nevigators, to get an insight into the situation.) Indeed, there was a rail accident this very weekend which held up several Singaporeans coming up to Edinburgh from other parts of the UK.

We took it easy the first day, trying to buy some fruits, the List magazine with the latest happenings in town. We chose to go for a play put up by college theater students but while we girls were shopping, the guys chatted up a friendly salesman in The Gadget Shop who recommended The Stand Comedy Club instead. It was not the first time the car proved to be very useful. The comedy club is located along WOODLANDS Road. Doesn't that sound familiar? We ate at a fantastic Indian restaurant nearby called (are you ready?) the Shish Mahal (66-68 Park Road, Kelvinbridge, Glasgow, Tel: 0141 339 8256) Reservations are recommended. We managed to get a seat cos' Ash told them we would eat fast and they were holding a table for an hour later anyway. After pappadums to whet the appetite (as if we weren't hungry enough already), the tandoori chicken, mutton curry and butter chicken were delicious accompanied with white rice and giant naans. The service was excellent and the price? 10 pounds per person.

The comedy acts were mainly dirty jokes rattled off in deep Scottish accents, obviously too difficult for an innocent, naive girl like me. :p Dawn fell asleep during the 3rd performance and we split after the lady finished her act. I had decided that I didn't like the Scottish beer that Ash, Dawn and Alvin had had.

Ash and Alvin dropped us two sleepyheads off at the hostel while they went to have some fun in the students' area and a hilltop cemetery!

We took advantage of the bright sunshine to take some photos of a dirty yellow river near our hostel. Upon returning to the car, we found a car fine which remains unpaid but unfortunately in the returned rented car. :) Parking along the road in white lots is free from 6pm to 8am on weekdays and after 1pm on Saturdays. Oops!

We were pretty law-abiding for the rest of the day. We put in 1 pound to buy ourselves 36 mins for most of the day. Next stop: the revelations of the activities of the night before by our two illustrious adventurers. The mud tracks on the grassy area next to Glasgow cathedral were worth a photo souvenir with the perpetuators. The St. Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art nearby is definitely worth a visit. It covers religions from Hinduism to Christianity with lots of interesting exhibits and clear explanations. Best of all, like most other museums in Scotland, it's free!

We had foot-long sandwiches for lunch at Subway while listening to Ashvin talk about the best restaurant in Lyon and probably Europe (the world?). I've forgotten the name but I do remember that they have truffle soup on the menu. I had great fun trying out a Big Gulp combi with the cup provided. Question : If the soft drinks dispenser is self-service like in this Subway, are they free flow?

Outside, the weather changed from sunshine to rain to snow, all within 15 mins of each other. After lunch, we roamed the city center in the totally (un)predictable weather. We finally took shelter in Willow's Tea Room, a tea room which has lost much of its original fittings from the beginning of the century although it's reputed to be a type of landmark for the locals. It's situated along Sauciehall Road above a jeweller's and we had the last scone in the house, a heavenly apple pie and afternoon tea! Their Caribbean crush is delicious!

It was soon time to head up to Edinburgh. After snaking through several traffic jams, we (and esp Dawn) finally got a toilet break on the outskirts of the city.

We ate at a nearby Italian restaurant De Niro's (140 Nicholson Street, Edinburgh, Tel: 0131 662 4185) where they were so accomodating that they served us individual plates with the dishes already shared out among us. Alvin and I shared some homemade pasta which I've forgotten the name of as well as a seafood rissotto. Delicious and well worth it at 7 pounds per person. As I said, it was the first time anyone had grated parmesan cheese and ground pepper in front of me in a restaurant!

After traditional Scottish dancing, we headed for Revolution, probably the most popular disco in town. Nonetheless, it wasn't jam packed as might be expected on a Fri night. Drinks were 1 for 1 before 1am on Fri and Sat. (eg. Dawn and I took a Archers-lemonade (what Ash calls a woman's cocktail) for 1 pound 40 each.) As usual, I didn't feel like dancing and the three of them moved to the beat. While we were walking around in search of a table in single file, a drunk(?) guy held my chin and asked me if I would like to... I continued walking and thanks Ash (who was behind me) for that reassuring squeeze on the shoulders soon after.

Sat 23 Feb 2002

Hop on-hop off. I finally got to take one of these open-deck bus tour of the city, since we had opted for the city tour in my Singnite package. We were late as usual and there wasn't any space left on the bus full of other Singaporeans. They didn't wave back when Dawn waved them goodbye. We got on to the next departing bus and the lady guide was clear and witty.

The statue commemorates the loyalty of the Skye Terrier known as Greyfriar’s Bobby. In the 1850’s Bobby visited the inn every day at 1 o’clock with his master Jock, a shepherd. They had lunch together and became a well-known pair.

After many years, the shepherd died and was buried in the churchyard. A few days later, Bobby showed up at the inn, and ate his regular lunch of bone. When the innkeeper followed the little terrier they ended up at the churchyard where Jock was buried, and Bobby laid on the grave of his late master. Bobby kept their routine and stayed by his master’s grave until his own death 14 years later.

We hopped off at Edinburgh Castle, the must-see of the city. Admission is pricey at 8 pounds for adults and students though and we could jolly well have spent a whole day within the premises. Not only is there the walled fortress to explore, but also the various museums, especially the one containing the Scottish Crown Jewels, sceptre and sword which had been kept hidden for 100 years after a parliamentary decree.

We also had great fun trying out hats, scarves and all things tartan in one of those terribly magnetic shops always found in the vicinity of any good tourist attraction.

Did the milkshakes in Trainspotting look good? Try them for yourself at The City Cafe, 19 Blair Street right off the Royal Mile. Smooth and the ideal drink to go with their popular venison burgets.

Walking along the Royal Mile, we passed by Clarinda's (the famous tea room strongly recommended by Kelvin, President of the Singnite 2002 committee and from whom we had had a very warm welcome the night before). Ashvin and Alvin were enchanted by a shop selling tarot cards, witchery and books about *ic worship, among others.

Unfortunately, the Palace of Hollywood (Holyrood) was closed by the time we got there. We waited for the next Guide Friday bus and we hopped on without the proper tickets but there was no need to explain anyway.

The emcees were not up to expectations at all. The poor girl was very nervous and kept reading from her prepared paper. Her male counterpart added neither spunk nor tact to the evening's line-up, which consisted of traditional bagpipes, pop dancing, an Irish tap dancing group (excellent!) and 2 homegrown singers!

After the finale of "Hand in Hand', it was time to kick off those heels! A band led us through several Ceilidh dances, just like the night before, although I personally prefer the previous band. The explanations were clearer and full demonstrations had been given. No matter, we enjoyed ourselves all the same. Slow dances with 1 partner turned out to be warm-ups for more complicated dances with several people in a group.

We had been introduced as the Singaporeans from as far away as from across the Channel. Several people passed by the table to ask if the people from France were there. Guess it was the first time Singaporeans from outside the UK joined the event although the invitation has always been extended.

While trying to get into line for one of the dances, I caught a glimpse of Lee Kheng, a friend from RGS. She was just as shocked as I was, pleasantly, I hope. Ashvin was the star of the evening, with previous classmates and schoolmates coming up to say hi. Guess Singnite is also about re-discovering shared memories.

Sun 24 Feb 2002

Today, we started off to Henriott Watt University to recuperate Ash's camera from Kelvin. The campus is on the outskirts of the city and the students have a magnificent view of the Scottish countryside around them. We decided to conquer the mountain next to the Palace of Bollywood (Holyrood) but we couldn't find a single road unblocked. Finally, after setting upon a detour advised by a cop, a young father and his toddler advised us to go on foot. Vehicles couldn't go up on Sundays and if the toddler could do it, so could we?

Off we went. We left the beaten track for a while to feel some green grass under our feet. Turning back, we were pleasantly overwhelmed by the stunning view of the coast and isles in the distance, as well as the tiny houses before us. Hungry for a bite, we stopped our ascent and drove to Grassmarket for haggis, tatties and neeps (haggis, potatoes and turnips)